How to Build an Adirondack Chair in 90 minutes

Adirondack chairs are a great addition to any outdoor space. They can provide a welcoming feeling and add character to your property. It is also a great place to relax after a long day of work, or as a place to read your favorite book.

Building an Adirondack Chair at home is not only fun, but it can also help you save money on expensive furniture and give you a sense of accomplishment.

Here is the complete list of things you would need before getting started.

Materials

Wood Products

Hardware & Supplies

Cut List & Parts

Directions

Know more about your materials

The first step in any project is getting all the materials you need. In this project, we are using cedarwood. Cedar usually has a rough side and a smooth side. Be sure to keep this in mind when laying out and making your project parts so that the rough side is on the inside or underside to avoid visible seams and maximize comfort.

Making the Back Legs

Using the 1×6 board with dimensions as shown in the photo below, cut both of the back legs into the correct proportion. Remeber to miter one end at 15°. Use a compass to graph out the radius for the back legs and then cut them using a jigsaw. If the edges are too rough, sand it down to create smoothness.

Make the Front Legs

As shown in the diagram below, cut both front legs to length using the 1×4 boards. Then, just like the back legs, use a compass to graph out the radius for the back legs and then cut them using a jigsaw. If the edges are too rough, sand it down to create smoothness.

Assemble the Legs

Now the front and back legs are ready to be assembled.

1. Position the back and front leg with the rough face up (as seen below)
2. It really helps to use a scrap board as a straightedge to align the parts
3. Once all the legs are properly aligned, attach them by using extertor waterproof glue and four 1 1/4″ exterior screws through each Back Leg and into each Front Leg.

Make the Front Apron

Using a 1×6 board, cut a front apron to dimensions as seen below. Then, with your Kreg® Pocket-Hole Jig set for 3/4″ material, drill pocket holes in the rough face of the Front Apron.

Attach the Apron

Use the 1 1/4″ Kreg Blue-Kote™ Pocket-Hole Screws to piece the front apron to the leg assemblies.

Make a Front Slat

Following the cutting diagram below, use a 1×3 cedar board to cut a front seat slat to length followed by eight-seat slats (Note: seat slats are longer). On the rough surface, drill pocket holes ONLY in the front seat slat as shown.

Attach the Front Slat

Using 1 1/4″ Pocket-Hole Screws, attach the Front Seat Slat to the Front Apron and the Front Legs (as shown in the diagram below). The face of the Front Seat Slat should fit flush with the upper edge of the Front Apron

Add Four More Slats

Now we can start working on the first four regular Seat Slats. Using the photo below as a guide, make sure they are positioned so one rests against the Front Leg and the others are spaced 1/4″ apart. Use 2″ exterior nails to hold them together.

Make the Seat Sides

Following the diagram below, use a 1×6 board and cut both of the seat sides to the right length. Remember to drill pocket holes in the rough face of each Seat Side to make another “mirror-image” set of parts.

Add the Seat Sides

Now you can install the Seat Sides. Start by lining up the square end against the Front Leg and then raise it until it’s in line with (and touches) the last one of the four Seat Slats you already put up.

Once the Seat Side is in position, clamp it in place while you secure it to the Front Leg with 1 1/4″ exterior pocket hole screws.

Then secure it to the Back Leg using 1 1/4″ exterior screws.

Make the Back Parts

Following the diagram below, cut four Back Slats followed by the Upper, Middle, and Lower Back Supports to length. Drill pocket holes in the rough face of the Middle Back Support and Lower Back Support, as shown

Assemble the Back

Following the diagram, use 1 1/4″ exterior wood screws to assemble the Back Slats and the Back Supports. Use 4 Screws at each Slat and Support location

Cut the Arc on the Seat Back

Set the radius for cutting the arched top of the back slats. You’ll notice that the center point lies between two Back Slats. Paste a layer of masking tape over and then draw on the center point. Use a string and a pencil to mark the radius on the top end of the Back Slats. Using a jigsaw, cut out and radius and then sand the cut ends until it is smooth.

Install the Back

Use the 1 ¼” Pocket-Hole Screws to attach the back assembly to the Seat Sides. You can use a clamp for easier assembly by keeping everything in place.

Tip: it is easier to lay the chair on its side and prop up the back assembly as you work on the installation

Make Arm Rails

Cut two Arm Rails pieces to length and then drill pocket holes on the right spots as seen in the diagram below.

Add the Arm Rails

Secure the arm rails to the front legs and middle back support using 1 1/4″ screws to prevent these pieces from coming off during use.

Add the last 4 Seat Slats

Attach the last four Seat Slats. Space them 1/4″ apart, and then nail them to the Seat Sides using 2″ exterior nails.

Arm Brace

Cut the Arm Brace to length and radius, drill a pocket hole in each Arm Brace.

Install the Arm Braces

Now it is time to attach the Arm Braces to the Front Legs. Make sure the braces are in the right position before driving 1 1/4″ exterior screws through each Front Leg and into each Brace.

Make the Arms

Following the diagram below, cut both arms to length and lay out the radius on each end of the arms. Use a jigsaw to cut out the radius and then sand the cut ends until smooth.

Attach the Arms

After positioning the arms as seen in the diagram below, use 1 1/4″ pocket hole screws to securely attach them in place. Check for any more rough surfaces as needed and then do your final sanding. Once you are satisfied, you can stain your chair. If you are unsure of what stain to use, you can consider using solid-color deck stains.

Conclusion

Let us know in the comments if you managed to complete this project within 90 minutes.

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